There's no real substitute for a powered jointer and planer when it comes to surfacing stock. But without a table saw, cross-cutting to length had to be done on the MFT, (easy) and cutting to width had to be done with the track saw as well. (Still easy, given the guide rail)
Since I was working with reclaimed lumber, I did the edge jointing and ripping with the track saw. And I'm incredibly grateful for that, too. The nails that I found embedded in the wood would have done no good to the jointer knives. And I'm not 100% that they would have played well with the SawStop, either. I know the saw looks for a drop in electrical charge, as it's absorbed into the human body, and I know that if I was actually touching one of those nails, that it would have set off the saw, for sure. Embedded nails? Not sure. Don't wanna find out, either.
So, really, the lesson of the day was to buy a hand-held metal detector for any future reclaimed wood projects. But also, yes, that you can do a lot with Festool that you'd normally want a table saw to do.
Once the nails were exposed, I was able to use a punch to drive them in, and edge joint the boards more properly. The track saw did a very good job, but a little more work was required to get the edges just so. In any event, getting the top glued up was pretty simple after the edge jointing.
Doing the breadboard ends wasn't too hard. I defined the shoulder of the end tenon with the track saw, set to the right depth of cut, and removed most of the waste with a router. I used the router table to run the groove in the end cap, and did a few other bits and pieces to get everything fitted up that way.
At this point in the project, I was 2 days away from delivery. (I delivered the table on the day before Thanksgiving) So, my emphasis was more on delivery than on documentation, so those details are, unfortunately, going to be left to the imagination.
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