The new dovetail plane in use

I'm in the middle of building a set of bookcases, which were the reason for building the plane. But, I think it's important to understand a technique before going ahead and using it on a finished piece, so I decided to make a small footstool for my wife to use, while nursing our son.



Once the lumber is milled up, the first step is to cut the female part of the joint. I ran dados on the top of the stool first, and then brought that part to the bench to use a router to shape the dovetail part of the joint. I used a simple clamping router fence to do the job. The first pass was square to the board. The second pass was laid out to be square, and then the fence was offset by 1/16" on the back end, to make a tapered socket.

The next step was to cut the male part of the joint, and fit each to their corresponding socket. The first one went in pretty well.



The next thing I learned was that it's important to lay out what end of the board is what, so that you don't make a stupid mistake when fitting the joint. 

I trimmed the 'legs' back, and cut the joints again. This time, I laid out the joints with a simple circle, to let me know which side was to be tapered, and on what face. For this stool, I don't think it would be critical. For a bookcase, it's a different story. The finished parts:

Between milling the boards, cutting the pieces, routing the grooves, and cutting the joinery twice, the whole thing, start to finish, was still done before lunch, which isn't too shabby. Next step is to fit the joints for the shelves that will go into these cases:

On making the dovetail plane:

Read Part 1.

Read Part 2.

Read Part 3.
Read part 4. 
Read Part 5. 

Changing Landscape

This blog was originally intended to be a frank exposé on life in and out of the shop, dealing with woodworking, small business, and life in general. And while most of the entries lately have been focused on shop projects, there's been a lot going on outside the shop.

Back in May, I started going to small business classes, and working with a business coach. There have been a lot of small changes in how I view the shop as a result. And the way things are going to be done going forward is going to be a reflection of that. One of the things that will be happening is that I'm going to start putting more emphasis on an actual line of furniture, and not just custom work.

Around the same time, my wife got pregnant with our first child. So, I started looking for work that I could do at home, and started working at the Caning Shoppe in Somerville, MA. It's interesting enough work, it's put me back in touch with the woodworking community in general... And I'll be able to weave seats at home while I'm taking care of my son. For the most part, it's been chair work... But there are a lot of pieces that I've seen in that shop besides chairs. And seeing just how many ways designers have used caned and woven surfaces in their designs, and not just in chairs, has really started the creative wheels turning. So that may be something that is reflected in the furniture I design.

And yes, I have a son! On February 19th, my son Gabriel was born.

Since then, I've been spending a lot of time at home, helping my wife, taking care of both of them, and getting ready to engage with the next steps in both business, and in family. There are a lot of projects that I've left unfinished, and it's time to put the rubber to the road.

So , stay tuned... I think things are about to get interesting.

Just a quick vent...

I've had an interesting time lately, trying to ingest the current 'industrial' design trend. It seems like everywhere I turn, someone has turned a useful tool into a decoration. Shop carts made into thousand dollar coffee tables, clamps into coat racks, and viable industrial space into lofts and apartments.

I'm sure there's a larger point to be made, and I'll get around to making it someday, but I think that the reason it bothers me so much is that I feel like these people have no appreciation for manufacturing or industry. The equivalent in modern work equipment might be to make things out of last year's useful items.. but who really wants a coffee table made out of old desktop PC towers, cash registers, and coffee house grinders?

At the end of the day, the two main things that are up for sale if you want to make a living are goods or services. And goods must be manufactured by people who know how, in spaces that are appropriate for that task. But it's as if the designers took a look at outsourcing, looked around at all of the remaining potential, and thought to themselves, "Well, they won't be using this anymore... let's turn it into something cute!"

If manufacturing is (was?) one of the things that made this country great, then isn't the process of turning productive spaces and equipment into trendy fluff a little bit like eating the seed corn?

This has been more and more of an issue for me as I begin to look to the future, and to think about moving into a different space. So many perfectly good industrial buildings have been chopped up and repackaged as 6- and 7- figure condos for 'modern living.' Buildings built to last the test of time, now re-furbished with the latest and greatest of almost-disposable appliances. I'm not sure why it just rubs me the wrong way, but it does.

Converting a Skew Rabbet Plane to a Dovetail Plane, Part 5

For the nicker, I had to do some head scratching. Vintage models use a wedge to hold nickers in place, but I didn't feel like fitting a wedge. And, the alignment issue was also on my mind. What I finally decided on was a pair of hex-key set screws. One comes through from the other side of the body of the plane, just at the bit of the nicker. The other is about 3/32" above it, tapped into the metal plate on the side of the plane. The lower screw allows me to align the bit with the side of the plane. The screw through the plate clamps the nicker in place.

The blade required some fine tuning at the wet grinder to get the angle just right, but it sharpened up just fine. After that, I put everything together and made a few test passes.

When I resoled the plane originally, I made a very tight mouth and throat. But because the shavings are cross-grain, they break off pretty easily, and not only is the support of a tight mouth not really needed, but it jams up pretty quickly. So, I opened it up. Because the blade is basically plowing out material, and not leaving a final surface, I'm ok with this. (I'm more worried with keeping the shavings flowing, than how finely they're being cut... this is intended to be a production too, despite the fussiness I've been putting into it.)

After that... well, that's pretty much it. I made a few more test passes with the plane, and it worked like I'd hoped. So, I gave it a good coat of wax, and played around with it for a while. Next week I'll get to put this tool to work.

Read Part One.
Read Part Two.
Read Part Three. 
Read Part Four.
The Plane In Use.

Snowed in!

My first born should be arriving any day now. So, needless to say, getting the car shoveled out was a big priority. But as the plows kept renewing the wall at the end my driveway, my back started to complain.

By now, I'm used to hearing about and learning about more efficient but almost-forgotten ways to work wood by hand, some of which are as fast or faster than power tools. So I found myself wondering if there was some similar, ingenious, but long lost technique to help clear the snow out of the way.

Then I remembered that they simply used snow shoes and sleighs instead.

Crap.

Converting a Skew Rabbet Plane to a Dovetail Plane, part 4

There are two basic functions that are critical to the proper operation of this plane. The fence needs to guide the cut, and the plane needs to make the cut.

The fence must reliably reference off of the end of the board. A lot of the most obvious work to date has been to accomplish this. The last remaining piece required to make this work is to drill holes in the body of the plane to install some wooden pieces to clamp against the arms of the fence, and some brass inserts, to allow the thumbscrews to drive those wooden pieces down. I used a dowel centering jig, some long brad point bits, and some stop collars to accomplish this.

The cut will be made in two steps: The nicker will score the wood ahead of the blade, establishing the shoulder, and the blade will plow out the waste. To do this properly, the nicker needs to be aligned with the side of the plane, the blade also needs to conform to the shape of the body, and the throat needs to allow the waste to clear. The nicker will be covered in the next entry.

To shape the blade, I needed to know where the edges needed to be. Because the sole used to be square, and because the sides of the plaen used to be wider, there was a lot of shaping that needed to be done. I coated the back with black magic marker, and scribed with an iron from a block plane. I used an 8" slow speed bench grinder to get close to the line, and finished up with a wet grinder. I started with the bench grinder because it's fast. I switched to the wet grinder because the blade comes to a point, and I didn't want to burn the temper out of the blade.

Read Part 1.

Read Part 2.

Read Part 3.
Read Part 5.  
The Plane In Use.

Quick shop tip: saving dust

Using wood dust to fill gaps, voids, etc, is a pretty old trick. But brushes, etc, don't always do such a great job of collecting the really fine stuff.

I found that using a small pad of post-its as a sort of dust squeegee does a much better job.